In the interests of freshness and economy, it is preferable to buy chicken whole rather then portioned. When serving meat of any kind pay attention to the size of the helpings on the plate. Health authorities advise us against eating large servings of meat. A chicken weighing 1.2 kg is sufficient for a meal to serve four average-size people. Small chickens (1 -1 .2kg) are generally more tender than large ones, but the larger ones usually have more taste.

Select a fresh, plump bird with a meaty breast and a fairly taut skin. Loose skin indicates lack of freshness. The color should be fleshy pink rather than off-white, and the legs should be strong-looking. Look for a bird with a rather solid bone structure. Free-range chickens, which have had a more varied diet and more exercise, are tastier and firmer-fleshed than battery chickens. The latter tend to lose more weight during cooking, due to slightly extra moisture loss. Free-range chickens cost a little more per kilogram, but there is more left after cooking for you to eat.