Every spring I eagerly await the first asparagus, and fortunately an increasing demand for it over the last few years has resulted in a lowering price, making this superb vegetable accessible to all in peak season. Asparagus goes well with chicken, veal and fish and is, of course, lovely cold in salads or sandwiches. Have you tried it?

Select: small, crisp asparagus with firm heads and petals closed. There are several varieties, which can all be cooked in the same way. It is best to eat asparagus soon after buying it.

Preparation: Small asparagus need no trimming, but if the spears are large, peel them by starting from just below the head and descending towards the base; snap off the tough part at the base of the stalk. Asparagus can be steamed, stir-fried, microwaved or boiled, and they take 2-10 minutes to cook. When boiling or steaming them, tie the spears in bundles of five to eight before cooking. Remove them from the hot water by taking hold of the string with the aid of a fork. Place on plates and cut and discard string before serving.

Suggested seasoning: Soy sauce or oyster sauce (low salt varieties), lemon with a little butter or margarine, orange rind, grated cheese, curry spices.

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